Whampoa - the Transformation of an Old Dockyard!

Whampoa is probably most commonly known as a residential estate interspersed with numerous shops and restaurants.  At first glance, it appears to be just another modern housing estate in the bustling metropolis of Hong Kong, but beneath the tall apartment blocks lies a little piece of Hong Kong’s history.

Whampoa Dock was at one time one of the largest dockyards in Asia.  Founded in 1863 by D. Lapraik and T. Sutherland, the dockyard was known as the Kowloon or Whampoa Docks.  Whampoa Docks were considered to be highly important as demonstrated when the Japanese eagerly sought to destroy the dockyard on the eve of their occupation of Hong Kong with heavy bombing causing large casualties. 

Despite the considerable damage to the docks, the dockyard continued to thrive well into the 1960s.

In 1985 the dockyard was transformed into a private housing estate: Whampoa Garden, the second largest private estate in Hong Kong after Mei Foo Sun Cheun.  


The largest private housing estate in Hung Hom, Whampoa Garden was completed in 1991.  It comprises of 88 16-storey residential towers and houses an estimated 40,000 people, including a significant Japanese and expatriate population.  The most striking, and certainly most surprising, landmark in the area is The Whampoa.  An obvious nod to the district’s history, the 110 metre long boat-shaped shopping centre was built on the site of the original no.1 dry dock.  During the 1980s and 1990s The Whampoa housed a playground, seafood restaurants, a cinema and an indoor family theme park.  In the late 1990s Jusco took over The Whampoa and it was renamed Aeon in 2013.  The boat is now home to a large department store and the wonderful shop that is the $12 store.  

Unfortunately the only remaining part of the original dockyard is Bulkeley Street, which now is a street like any other in Hong Kong, lined with Chinese medicine shops, small local restaurants and unique clothes shops.  The only sense of something historical is the small temple located at the end of Bulkeley Street.

Any regular visitors to Whampoa will have noticed the current redevelopment of the area, which I can only assume is meant to coincide with the opening of the new Whampoa MTR station currently under construction.  New shops, hotels and restaurants are appearing with surprising frequency.  With all this regeneration in the area, I can’t help but wonder whether the changes are completely welcome.  The redevelopment and the new MTR link will certainly bring more people to Whampoa, which will presumably see businesses flourish and the local economy grow.  The potential downside to this is that property prices will likely rise and rents will inevitably increase. 

So will the continuing evolution of Whampoa prove to be beneficial to the locals?  Or will the inevitable surge in property prices and rent hikes force some local people to move to cheaper areas? Only time will tell, but as a current Whampoa local, I’m excited to be part of the next chapter in Whampoa’s story.

A big thank you to the amazing Lisa Masters who contributed to this post! 

Shek Kip Mei - the forgotten estate with significant Hong Kong history

Shek Kip Mei, known for it's estate that borders Sham Shui Po and Kowloon Tong.  Many foreigners may not heard of this area, and many locals probably never visited to this area.  It might be a small area and seems very insignificant, but it held a very significant history of Hong Kong.  Back in the late 1940s and early 1950s, it used to house a large numbers of illegal immigrants from Mainland China, where most of them used to live in wooden shanties.  Then in the late 1950s and 1960s, this area actually became Hong Kong's first official public housing launched by the Colonial government.

View of the current Shek Kip Mei's estates and private housing, and with the "Lion Rock" as the backdrop.

This is one of the blocks within the Shek Kip Mei Estate, walking around this area makes me feel nostalgic.  It brings back some of the precious memories from my childhood.  My grandparents used to live in one of these blocks, and I spent a lot of time running through the hallways, and playing at the stairs!

The Jockey Club Creative Arts Center (JCCAC), converted from the Shek Kip Mei Flatted Factory Building.  Now the building consists of over 100 studio units, encompassing a wide spectrum of various art classes and studios.  It also has 2 exhibition galleries and also a cafe.  If you like art, this is definitely a place that you should visit!

Last but not least, the historical Mei Ho House.  This is one of the last of it's kind that was built in the 1950s. I'm glad that the government has chose to preserve it and revitalized it into a Youth Hostel!  It also has a very nice cafe tucked in the back, as well as a museum about this building and the Shek Kip Mei estate.  I highly recommend anyone who are interested in learning more about Hong Kong history to pay a visit!  

Shing Mun Reservoir - the grass is greener where??

Shing Mun Reservoir, this is a reservoir situated in the area between Tsuen Wan and Sha Tin! Believe it or not, this reservoir is surrounded by dense forests! Yes, and this is Hong Kong!! There are also multiple hiking trails surrounding this reservoir. A friend (one of the blog owners from HomeMadeInHK) and I took a hike up to this reservoir looking for the greenery and a bit of an adventure! Needless to say, this place is absolutely beautiful (Just look at the pictures below), this probably be a different side of Hong Kong most foreigners rarely see on TV. If you are going to be in Hong Kong for a week, and if you are into hiking, definitely consider making a side trip to see this side of Hong Kong!

After you reach the end of the village, you keep walking uphill for another 10 mins, and the reservoir will be in front of you, then we headed right to get on the edge of it

The other side of the reservoir, you can see the dense forest, and if you look farther beyond the forest, you will see a shape of a lion lying down, and that's the famous Lion Rock Mountain!

After seeing a waterfall from above, we found our way down to take a better look

Quarry Bay - WHERE?

Quarry Bay, Where??  If you don't live in Hong Kong, I bet you will be asking this question. Quarry Bay is an area located on the east side of the Hong Kong island. I don't think you will find this place on any tour books, but if you are interested in seeing some unique building structures, I still recommend you to take a quick trip here.  Quarry Bay is mainly made up of restaurants, many office buildings and residential building, and there is also a trail up to Mount Parker. I've been to this area for lunch quite a few times, and recently, I've noticed on the news that the movie Transformers 4 was filming in this area (yes, Michael Bay and gangs were spotted here), well, they definitely found an area worth filming, and I encourage you to come here to snap a few photos.

Some of the most unique building structures that you can find in Hong Kong.  The pictures are all taken in Quarry Bay.  Yes!! This is one of the filming locations in Hong Kong for Transformers 4.

Yau Ma Tei - Part 2 - The east meets west within steps...

Walking south on Reclamation Street from the Fruit Market, towards People Square Street you will come across some more beautiful historical buildings, where the east meets west. If you head right on People Square Street, you will see a neoclassical building structure, and that's is the Yau Ma Tei police station.  If you head to your left, you will come across a public square known to the locals as "Yung Shue Tau" or the head of Banyan, and directly behind it is the Tin Hau temple.  The square and the temple is deemed as the heart of Yau Ma Tei. These historical complex and structures are definitely worth a quick visit!

The Yau Ma Tei police station was built in 1922, and it is classified as a Grade 2 historic building

Yung Shue Tau - this is a gathering place for senior citizens

Tin Hau Temple of Yau Ma Tei - it's listed as Grade 1 historic building since May 2010

Yau Ma Tei - Part 1 - Slightly less well-known little brother of the famous Mong Kok...

Yau Ma Tei, it may not be a very popular among tourists, but it's only minutes away from the famous Mong Kok. This is mainly an area mixed of residential and retail. There are still quite a few hidden treasures in the area, enough treasures for me to split this into separate parts.

The Yau Ma Tei fruit market (pictures to the left and above), this is a century old building, and still a working market.  Many wholesalers still operate in the market, and the busiest time and 4 to 6 am in the morning,

Just right next to the fruit market, it is the Yau Ma Tei theater, it was once the largest theater and the only remaining Pre-World War II theater in Kowloon.  Right around the corner down the street, there is a Red Brick Building, literally, was an engineer's office of the only remaining building of  the former pumping station, which was built in 1895.  It is the oldest pumping station in Hong Kong.  Now is being used as an administration building and an exhibit in conjunction along with the Yau Ma Tei theater.

Kwun Tong - one of the major industrial areas of Hong Kong...

First stop, it's the industrial area of Hong Kong called Kwun Tong, and most tourists probably won't step foot here.  
The collage below are made up of pictures I took at Yue Man Square. Yue Man Square is the town center of Kwun Tong.  The government has planned to redevelop the town center, most of these old buildings will be tear down and make room for new skyscrapers.